Why does the ruger lcr rattle

The wags who bray about revolvers being uber-reliable, never jamming, etc. That said, I have no doubt the LCR is a durable wheel gun which can generally be depended upon.

Nothing wrong with that. I'll have to check that holster out in Oct then. Well, then the fact that my mother's example was loose and "rattle-y" after rounds makes it even worse, IMO.

We have explained the rattle You do understand that right? I posted the explanation above. But what was loose? You still haven't said. I have handled quite a few and they are all tight. Including mine that has close to 5K through it now. All makes and models have lemons I had a jframe forcing cone crack in under rounds. Should I go on ranting that they suck? You might not know who you're talking to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

I have around ish rounds through my. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Honestly I am just trying to clarify things.

I am just trying to inject facts into some misunderstandings and get clarification because I am interested. Fact: the rattle is normal it is the transfer bar. Fact: all of the important cylinder tolerances are surrounded by metal not polymer. So whatever, I may not know who I am talking to but on this particular subject I am pretty clear on what I am talking about. That extra bit of length between the backstrap and the trigger face really helps me to keep the front sight from dipping just as the trigger breaks.

I'm sure that this problem varies according to hand size, but when my trigger finger joint has to flex beyond 90 degrees to the bore line before the trigger breaks which WILL happen to me with a J frame , that muzzle really wants to dive on me. On the J frame, that always left me with needing oversized grips to help reduce this problem. After using the LCR a few months, I sold off my beloved brace of tuned s because the LCR works better for me in terms of shootability.

I understand that there is some variation in LCR actions, but the sample I've handled, sold, worked on, etc,,, are always smoother than out of the box J frames. Hey, they ARE ugly, but so are most modern designs to my 50 something eyes! Wow, I never thought of the extra reach until I read your post. I chalked it up to the cam trigger system and the smooth pull.

Thanks for the insight. You do understand what endshake is, right? Both types? Or maybe not. Sorry to have twisted your knickers. I have no experience with them. But one of our armor's worships at the alter of Ruger, so for him to say anything negative about a Ruger product usually requires a therapy session afterward. When I asked about his opinion and experiences with the LCR he said that the version is preferred to the 38 version as the 38 version isn't as durable.

This is allegedly due to the aluminum in the 38 vs. When the 38's were demonstrating issues, it was the gun loosening up. End shake as LSP described is one of the issues that was occurring. This is second hand information, so take it or leave it. Many folks on here don't know the extreme depth and breadth of LSP's and 's experience with our craft and tools. I have a pretty good view of it and when he talks of endshake on any revolver, I'm going to listen. Now this is very interesting.

However, I had no idea that Ruger used aluminum with one and steel with the other to reinforce the plastic. That certainly would suggest getting the. I'm sure that there must be a few revolver smiths who know more than he does about revolvers, but his knowledge can be fairly described as "encyclopedic. Other than a tiny tiny bit of weight, I can't think of a reason to get the. The Hogue recoil tamer grips work pretty well, and with gr it's pretty manageable.

Although I am looking for a. Dunno about that. The latter was- shall we say- abruptly educational. From Ruger's website:. Each to their own, but my previous backup gun was I carry my BUG on one ankle and cuffs and a flashlight on the other.

It balances out nicely and is no different than wearing boots in the way it feels. FWIW I have been issued a. I honestly don't know how many rounds I have put through it besides quarterly qualifications. I carried a. That may just be trash in there, I don't know. I shoot it and clean it once in a blue moon. Good revolver and I would buy one with my own dime and not worry about it.

It continues to do it as I slowly squeeze the trigger. Once the hammer falls, it stops. As I slowly release the trigger, it stays quiet until the trigger resets. I don't remember the display model doing this. I wouldn't have bought one if it did. Before I bring it back, I thought I'd ask to see if anyone else has this same rattling noise. Never mind. Apparently it's a known, normal annoyance. Like all newly manufactured Ruger revolvers, your LCR has a transfer bar safety system as part of the fire control mechanism.

As a result, a hammer blow can be transmitted to the firing pin only when the trigger is pulled all the way to the rear.

This is a positive internal safety feature. By design, the transfer bar is allowed some movement within the fire control mechanism so that trigger pull is not affected. Due to this necessary "play" in the transfer bar, a shooter will sometimes hear the transfer bar "rattle" when the revolver is shaken. This rattle caused by the play in the transfer bar is completely normal in the LCR.

NES Member. Joined Sep 10, Messages 31, Likes 49, The LCR is too light for pistol-whippin so Ruger figured the rattle was acceptable Canndo NES Member. Joined Mar 11, Messages 11, Likes 12, Yeah normal. I had the same question about mine. It's not normal at all! You need to bring it to my house, and I will take it off of your hands before someone gets hurt.

How is the trigger on it? I've read a review or two about it, stating it was bad--not as good as the centerfires. Click to expand I had a LCR in That rattle drove me mad!

I purchased my LCR in mid ' The year they came out. Mostly target. Dab of locktite fixed that early on. Latley last couple times ive fired it I've noticed the cylinder to frame fitment is a little on the loose side. Loose enough to concern me. I've checked my other revolvers and they are not like that. If I hold the piece of the cylinder that swings out on its nice and tight. Even checking with some empty cases in the gun, the cylinder looseness concerns me. Checking the cylinder to barrel clearance is about.

Also if you look around on various forums there are posts about gasses "cutting" the frame just above the barrel. Its noticeable on mine but doesnt seem concerning. Just wanted to see if other LCR owners have noticed similar things or if I'm just being paronoid. Does it rattle if shook? End shake, if that is what you are experiancing, is a sign of heavy wear. Yes exactly that. Nope dont have that issue, but i dont have as many rounds down the pipe as you do.

Yea, i would call ruger. I figured it would come to that but wanted to make sure first. I'll keep this thread updated. I have about rounds through my. I bought the for the versatility of ammo and the fact that the frame is steel instead of aluminum,and the barrel and cylinder are the high grade steel they use on their. Ruger wants me to send it on my dime and wouldnt say over the phone weather or not there are any known issues. If they feel there is an issue they will fix it and send it back, if not they'll just send it back.

I guess we'll see! I'm glad I'm the original owner. Your cylinder gap is way to excessive 12k! Ideally 3k min 9k max. Not to mention the rattle- bit unnerving. Send her back. I'm not very happy at the moment. Yea i would be too.. I would call a supervisor.. I think you need to find a different FFL. If you bought it new the gunshop where you bought it should have shipped it at their cost for you.

Holy Smokes Batman! I took one look at that plastic confabulation and after holding it, put it right back in the display case. Aluminum is as weak as I will go, not doing plastic and it appears this is why good luck with getting it fixed I hope Ruger repairs it, let us know! Well i cant argue with that,but i haven't had any issue with my LCR